Czeching In: 4th of July in Prague

Awaking at the butt crack of dawn was very rewarding, as we understood that we would be off to a place that so many friends have raved about. After an hour into our train we were unexpectedly stopped due to our car coming close to flailing off the tracks. Someone that sat a few seats back from us noticed that the wheels began to smoke and pieces of metal were flying out from under the train. As we hurriedly moved forward to the next car, two American voices behind us asked if they could join us in the six-person suite we had just entered. It was the 4^th of July and we knew that the bigger crew of Red, White, and Blue the better. We met Micah and Zach from Los Angeles and were quickly sharing travel stories and asking where we could find a place to stay for 2 nights. Luckily, they had rented a 4-bed room hostel that they had only ended up needing for themselves. With little negotiation, they agreed to let us fill the other two beds at the Pension Corto Hostel and fulfill American pride throughout the streets of Prague. 


We made it to the Prague train station with our bags secure and asked the information desk where to head for our hostel. With little help and a grunting voice, the bearded man pointed off into the distance to what could have been leading us in either direction. We continued out of the station and walked in direction of our gut feeling. Fortunately, we ran into another crowd of Americans along with an Argentinian couple who Garrett made special conversation with about his country proud button down he had bought on a previous trip to their hometown of Buenos Aires. The group enjoyed our presence as we exchanged 4^th of July cheers and was helpful in guiding us to Old Town Square where we would find our hostel.

On the way, we stopped to get some change for our stay and were instantly rich. At least the 1,000 labeled bill made us think so. The US dollar to Czech exchange rate was approximately $1 to 17 korunas. Upon reaching the street where our hostel was located, we noticed a really long outdoor market, remarkably crowded and contained stands of fresh fruit, handcrafts, jewelry, etc. We received our keys and entered a long dark hallway that veered to a staircase, seemingly endless as we fought four steep flights of stairs. Our next couple nights would be spent in this relatively older building that was all we needed and had a great view of the daily street market and famous Astronomical Clock on Old Town Square. We dropped our bags off in the room and were ready to grab a bite to eat. The receptionist referred us to their restaurant that was 20% off and was located outside of the hostel on the sidewalk parallel to the market. Our experience of Czech’s finest Pilsner Urquell drought beers was in hand along with a delicious tomato mozzarella carpi starter and ham-topped pizza, instantly curing our hunger. With our stomachs content, we decided it was time for a brief siesta back at the hostel before we presented our American culture to the Czech Republic.

We woke up in the early evening and were destined to the Beer Factory. Thanks to all the messages from everyone on Garrett’s Facebook, you did not lead us in the wrong direction. We made it to the Beer Factory within 5 minutes from our hostel after passing several inviting Schnitzel stands. An enthusiastic man greeted us upon descending down the staircase into the long narrow cellar. Instead of taps filled with Guinness, like the pubs in Dublin, the tables at the Beer Factory dispensed premium Pilsner Urquell for all to enjoy. We sat down at a four-person table and poured our first pint while analyzing the scene around us.

Surprisingly, a D.C. United soccer game was on the big screen and our American tunes were playing. Located next to the game was a screen that relayed different numbers with tally marks underneath which brought up some curiosity. We ordered very American food, Buffalo wild wings and Baby back ribs, for dinner and were eventually informed about the second screen of the Factory by our waitress. The numbers on the screen represented the table you were sitting at and the tally marks pertained to the number of pints consumed by each table. Greatly satisfied by the portions and the quality of the food, the challenge had  now begun. We were table # 12 and we made the presence of American’s known with a bang as we held down first place for most of the night. After several hours passed, a few playful confrontations occurred between our outnumbered table and the fierce German competitors at table # 10 until we fell behind in the rankings.  Nevertheless, we continued to dominate the Beer Factory, this time on the dance floor. Our performance of Nationalism was noteworthy and well respected by the dozens of smiling faces that surrounded our table. The 4^th of July could not have been any better outside of the United States. We came, we saw, and most importantly, we spread democracy!

A Night in Vienna

Dreading another 12-hour night train, Chase and I were in pretty rotten moods from the moment we got to the station.  Our seat reservations appeared to be in a terrible section and we were both exhausted from a full day of walking around Zurich. The train arrived on time, which was nice because we were able to board immediately and grab the two window seats in our train car of six. With four spaces left, Chase and I spent the next half hour anxiously waiting for our other car mates to poke their heads through the door; but they never came. We now had three seats a piece. The trip was looking better already. To make things even better, we were able to plug in the computer (Thanks Sheree) and entertain ourselves for the first few hours of the train ride until we both passed out.  After checking the computer for any movies or TV shows, we stumbled upon a group of videos that would turn out to be a great catch. Everyone knows that the men of Annapolis love their fishing and this video proves it. Each video captures local legends George Turner and Kelly Bjornerud taking on the best fishing spots in Maryland with family, friends and fellow fisherman. The action and commentary in these videos are pure gold Ladies and Gentleman. Chase and I are even thinking of compiling the videos and selling them as tutorials. “Chronicles of an Annapolis Fisherman: The Wardour Files”.  While we’d love to relay all of the major tips in each video to you, we must first consult George and Kelly for copyright reasons; obviously. However, we can leave you with probably two of the most important lessons we learned during our 12-hour train ride.

1.     “Country music always brings em to the boat” – Kel Dog on catching the fish

2.    “You always use the flash baby” – George on posing with the fish after the catch

After some laughs and a good night of rest, we were finally in Austria early the next morning. Once we arrived at the station, we headed to the information desk in order to reserve seats for our train to Prague the next day and locate our hostel. In the process, we ended up running into two backpackers from Dallas, Texas. The two men, Justin and BJ, were making their way South to Madrid and were on the tail end of their 40-day trip in Europe.  Since their train to Interlaken was completely booked, Justin and Bobby decided to come with us to the Ruthensteiner Hostel. We combined forces and split a four-person room in what turned out to be one of the nicest hostels we had seen thus far. The list of luxuries includes: free Internet, tile floor bathroom, nice beds, bar, washer and dryer, kitchen, etc.  We settled into the room and then headed off to the city for some sightseeing.

Unfortunately for us, the weather did not hold up its end of the deal with the sightseeing. When it rains it pours. The rain and powerful winds didn’t let up until later in the evening. Although we were able to snap a few good photos as we walked throughout the city, most were nothing to blog home about. However, we did make it to the center of Vienna where St. Stephans Cathedral stands. Although the outside was under construction, the inside was one of the most beautiful churches we had seen on our trip. Once you walk inside the Cathedral you can truly comprehend and appreciate its massive size. The medieval pillars and arches of the cathedral perfectly surrounded the wonderful displays of art and holy sacraments. A true masterpiece in my mind.

Side Note: Almost every major sight or attraction has been under construction so it has been tough to get pictures without cranes or scaffolding in the way.

We spent nearly an hour inside the cathedral and left feeling more religious and spiritual than before. Our day ended with a few pictures of the Parliament building, the Mozart statue and more rain. As we made our way back to the hotel, an authentic plate of Schnitzel caught our eye at a nearby restaurant. Austria knows how to do Schnitzel.

After dinner we returned to the hostel and made our way to the kitchen for some drinking and cards with Justin and BJ. After exchanging a few stories from our travels, the Dallas boys told us something that we think needs to be made into an ESPN documentary or something of that nature. Being from Dallas, Justin and BJ are huge Mavericks fans. Since they could not be in Dallas for the NBA finals, they decided to go to Dirk Nowitzki’s hometown in Germany for the last few games of the series. Dirk is the Mav’s best player and an icon in Germany for his basketball skills. Anyway, the main bar in town was at capacity for the final game of the series and too crowded for Justin and BJ to watch. They decided to leave the bar and were eventually awarded for this early exit. After several minutes in the street, they were informed that Dirk’s old high school was being opened for the evening as a watching site for the game. The school was only a few blocks down the street so Justin and BJ went for it. The Mav’s ended up winning the NBA Championship that night and they were in the only other place besides Dallas that was worthy of an epic celebration. Congrats boys.

With an early train to Prague the next morning we closed up shop early and got some rest.

Zurich Part 2

We awoke at 10:00 AM well rested and energized from our wonderful dinner the night before. Bags were packed and ready for check out at 11:00 AM. Our heavy luggage was not something that we wanted to haul around during our quest through the town so we asked the receptionist where we could safely leave them. With quick response from the front desk, “the lobby area is a secure place and we will always have a receptionist here.” We consulted with Bernard to make sure our 2-month travel life would not be taken away from us and he confirmed that the Swiss were relatively kind and self-respectful people. Now comfortable, we strolled out of the ZicZac Hotel directed towards Starbucks once again to pirate some free Wi-Fi and avoid purchasing $10 coffees. We caught up on emails and planned our stay in Vienna prior to strolling the cobble stone streets towards one of many attractions.

With only the small backpack pouch on Garrett’s back, the “Bag Of Important Things”, our tourist appearance did not receive as many outright stares. My huge backpack was not juggling around drumming people in the face and Garrett’s trolley suitcase was not irritating locals with the noise of the hard wheels on the rough cobble stone surface. We continued like pros through the narrow winding streets and found ourselves across from the Lammat River at the Kongresshaus Concert Hall. Upon entering the Concert Hall, our jaws dropped and we looked right at each other in amazement. The luminescent Hall was enlightening with a massive gold chandelier and charming ceiling mosaics. With emptiness surrounding us, it was appropriate for Garrett to lead the nonexistent band with a silent concerto. After appreciation for the hard work and effort that was empowered into this special Concert Hall it was time to move on across the street to the Zurichsee where we would get our first good glimpse of the Lake. Filled with rowboats, sailboats, and paddleboats, we knew we needed to get involved. After several photographs of the lake, we found ourselves at the Burkliplatz, the birthplace for the Lake Zurich boats. With a panoramic view of the lake, we decided to rent a pedalo, or paddleboat, in order to capture a superior view of the lake. The floating red rocket gave us exercise and the ability to observe some of the most beautiful sights of Zurich. 

After some fun on the water, Belvoir Park was next on the to do list. We walked further down the lake’s edge to what we had been told was the largest self-contained park in the city. This park was very inviting and an attraction we were glad to see. Football fields of the greenest grass, gardens, and coy populated ponds with lily pads filled the park. After leaving the park we walked over the bridge and took many more photographs of the Zurichsee Lake and decided it was time to eat a snack. We treated ourselves to a bratwurst that was very good but also very strange as we found white meat inside. Although our hunger was satisfied, we were still skeptical of the different colored meat. Next, we found ourselves at the Zurich Opera house and were able to take in the beautiful architecture but with disappointment it had 
already closed.

After spending a full day taking in all of Zurich’s attractive sites and expensive food, we were on our way back to the ZicZac through the city's narrow alleyways to get our bags. Luckily, our bags were still in the lobby and we had a little more time for one last pit stop before catching our train. We were loaded up with all of our gear and trekked up a sloped road with many stairs to the University of Zurich and the Swiss Federal Institute of Technology.  Upon reaching the top, we noticed the most overwhelming and memorable outlook of the entire city. As we made it to the peak, all of the church bells started ringing simultaneously. This could not have been a better ending to our special visit in Zurich.

We arrived to the train station a few hours prior to our 10:00 PM departure and were able to catch up on our blog.  Here we come Vienna. 

Familiar Faces in Zurich

With hardly any sleep from the night in Ibiza, we found ourselves back in the airport to catch an afternoon flight back to Barcelona. Upon arrival, we learned that the flight would be delayed for over an hour. Normally this would not be too big of a deal, however, that hour and a half delay would further complicate our travels North. The delayed flight caused us to miss our night train to Zurich by only a half hour which put us in between a rock and the Barcelona Airport. Since we were meeting Bernard and Anne in Zurich for only the afternoon and evening of July 1st, we decided that the only option was to book a flight for the day from Barcelona to Zurich via Vueling Airlines. Not recommended. After buying our tickets and discovering all of the wonderful hidden fees that accompanied our relatively "cheap" ticket, we learned we could not check into our flight until 4:00 AM the next morning. We analyzed our budget and realized that it made most sense to sleep in the airport, or so we thought. We were restricted to an area that was essentially the size of a football field, except on one sideline we had airport security, and the other curb-side check in. Seats on benches and chairs were hard to come by so we constructed a sleeping area on the cool marble floor of the airport in order to rest. Just when we thought we were in the clear, a security guard slowly approached our resting station and barked at us to stand up. We followed his command, as did the other airport squatters, but realized that once he was out of site, most travelers returned to their original sleeping positions. We did the same. This would be the first of many encounters with airport security. Nearly an hour later, the same officer, this time on a Segway, zoomed over to us and ordered us to stand again.  Once he drove off to awaken more sleeping travelers, we finally understood the timing and route of his patrolling duty. From this point on, our James Bond instinct would kick in. We would relocate nearly every hour, sometimes behind ticket counters and benches, in order to gain another hour of undisturbed rest. The moral of the story is, no one knows why your not allowed to sit or sleep on the ground in the Barcelona airport.

 

We inevitably made it to 4:00 AM and passed through security without a problem. Unfortunately, Adam was leaving us at this juncture to head back to London for an early flight back to America on Sunday. After saying goodbye, Adam left for the train station and Chase and I continued to wait for our flight. Three hours later we were on an empty plane stretched out in our own rows and ready to sleep for more than an hour in one sitting. After the landing woke us up, we made it through the airport with ease and trained to the middle of Zurich in roughly 30 minutes. Flying into Zurich is the way to go, just not on Vueling Airlines. Our hotel was in walking distance from the train station so Chase and I casually strolled down the streets of Zurich along the Limmat River until we reached our address. Now before I start describing the hotel, I want to let everyone know that we had no involvement in the booking of the room. It was all Bernard.  One week ago, I received a hotel confirmation email from the “ZicZac Hotel” in Zurich saying that they had prepared our room and were ready for our stay.  Interestingly enough, the hotel turned out to be a Rock n’ Roll hotel that was randomly located in the heart of Zurich.  Each room was dedicated to a famous rock singer or rock group from the past several decades and contained plaques and memorabilia from each rockers career. Luckily for us, room 401, the Guns n’ Roses room,  was ours for the night. As we opened the door, we immediately noticed the 10 ft. by 10 ft. airbrushed painting of the Guns n’ Roses symbol. Definitely a comical scene for Zurich.

Bernard and Anne finally arrived in Zurich and met us for a quick lunch at a local restaurant that overlooked the beautiful clear water of the Limmat. We shared stories of our trips thus far and had a few laughs about our encounter with groups of naked men running on the beaches of Barcelona and their trek in formal attire through a gay pride parade in Paris to catch a wedding ceremony.  I think it’s safe to say that there was too much skin involved in both stories. We munched down our baguettes and ordered a round of espressos and one piece of chocolate cake for the table. As you can imagine, the cake was delicious and finished within minutes of its arrival to our table. Although we had just met up with Bernard and Anne, we agreed that it was time to part ways. While they checked into their hotel, we made our way to the Starbucks down the street from the ZicZac. After checking emails and updating the blog, it was time to siesta.

Several hours passed before Bernard phoned us to relay the dinner plans. Most of our clothes were dirty from travelling so we figured the most we could do is take a nice shower before meeting them for dinner and drinks. However, unlike the airbrushed painting, the shower was about 2ft. by 2ft. and lacked the same rocker mentality that our wall possessed. We quickly used the handheld nozzle in our box of a shower then headed towards the lake to the Baur Au Lac Hotel where Bernard was staying. While his hotel room was no rock show, it did impress us with the some of its luxuries. The TV in the shower was the most appealing. With time to spare before our dinner reservation, we shared more stories over a few glasses of champagne and bar snacks. Luckily, the restaurant was in the back of the hotel so we didn’t have to move very far. When we finished our aperitifs, we headed downstairs to the restaurant and were seated for dinner. Craving a meal that was not originally wrapped in plastic or sold in a combo pack at a train station,  Chase and I ordered a Gentlemen’s cut of Beef Tenderloin and a fresh piece of Veal Cutlet with Bernard’s guidance.  Bernard also ordered the Veal while Anne chose the Salmon. I think the boys at the table forgot that we were at a restaurant that was located on one of the best lakes in the world for seafood. At least someone was thinking. Anyway, our food arrived and was everything that we could have asked for in a meal. The meat and salmon were juicy, flavorful and cooked to our desired temperatures. French fries and a nicely aged bottle of Merlot won the award for best supporting actor in this one.  Once our plates were cleared, the dessert menus came our way and it was once again time to try some of the world’s best chocolate.  We agreed on sharing a warm piece of chocolate cake with vanilla ice cream and waited for it to join us at our table. For me, this course won Best Actor. The only way to describe the cake is to say that it easily outshines the “Hot Lava Cake” from the Charthouse Restaurant in Annapolis, Maryland.

We exited the restaurant, full and happy, and made our way back to Bernard and Anne’s room to say goodbye. They were leaving for the airport at 6:00 AM the next morning and we were exhausted from travelling so an early night for all was needed.  With a night train to Austria late the next evening, we would have another full day in Zurich to enjoy.

This Must Be The Place

As we arrived at Ibiza around 9:00 AM, swim trunks in hand, the perfect 80-degree weather  everyone had mentioned to us couldn’t have felt better. We quickly waved down a cab outside the airport and made our way to Hotel Victoria where we would spend our one night. Once we dropped our bags dropped off at the hotel, the Malibu Beach club, suggested by Hugh, was our next stop. Although Hugh had a rough idea of where the club was located, we were not completely sure where to enter the beach. After passing several sandy and sketchy pathways, we stumbled upon a promising, boarded walkway. Moments later, Hugh informed us that, “this must be the place.” The beautiful tropical countryside, white sand and crystal blue water of the Mediterranean Sea was before our eyes.  We gathered towels and umbrellas before setting up our beach spot. Positioned directly on the shoreline for all to see, it was obvious that we were American as our blank faces starred with curiosity and excitement.

Once we situated ourselves on the beach, it was time to test the water. Without hesitation, all four of us raced into the water. The salty, warm water was a necessary treatment to cure our bodies from minimal sleep and dehydration from the night before.  After an hour or two of downtime in the Mediterranean, we decided to venture onto the beach club’s terrace for another authentic Spanish meal. Even though we already had a taste of paella the night before, it was clear that this local restaurant’s paella was going to outshine the Japanese Steakhouse’s attempt at the classic Spanish dish. To no surprise, the paella was magnificent and was the perfect complement to several rounds of Estrella beer.

We paid our bill and headed back to our umbrellas but decided to entertain ourselves with some paddle ball, known as Kadima, that we had seen all of the locals playing; some even playing topless…… Hugh returned from the activities tent with a pair of new Kadima paddles, each paddle made from an exotic wood on the island.  As we took turns playing, we found ourselves jumping and diving in the water, attempting to rally for the most consecutive strikes between each other.  Despite our best efforts, the locals still hold the title for most hits in a row. By a lot.  The energy exerted in the water gave us enough reason to partake in another siesta back at the hotel.

After cleaning up and getting a good meal in us at the hotel restaurant, we headed downstairs to grab a drink at the bar and heard a peculiar sound coming from the patio. As we walked through the entrance, we noticed a trio of local dancers who knew a thing or two about booty shaking. Surprised by the  performance in our hotel bar, we felt obligated to have a few beers and support their various acts and  representations of Spanish tradition and culture on the island. Although the dresses and dance moves were very appealing, we had already purchased tickets to another performance that would ultimately be the highlight of our stay in Ibiza.

The hotel receptionist called us a cab and before we knew it, we were at one of the hottest clubs on the island, Space.  The club was hosting the opening party for a venue known as “BE”, a very popular and exotic venue on the island.  Headlining the event was none other than Armin Van Burren. Putting the Netherlands on his back, Van Burren has been dubbed the World’s best DJ four years in a row and this show was all the proof we needed. With a complex arrangement of lights and mist surrounding the main stage, Van Burren was able to play for nearly 6 hours and kept his fans partying until the early morning.

Barcelona Part 2

After a fun night, we awoke to conquer the sites and sounds that Barcelona had to deliver.  We made a quick stop at La Catalinas for a traditional tapas meal, consisting of six cold dishes and six hot ones. The two favorite dishes of the meal were the huevos rancheros and the garlic potatoes covered in olive oil and herbs. We were approached by several American girls after our meal, learning that they too were visiting Barcelona for a few days on there Semester at Sea. Completely stuffed, we now had the energy to head to La Sagrada to witness the massive piece of art by Gaudi.  It was nothing short of breathtaking as each square foot told a different story of masterful technique a century ago.  As a local Canadian told us later that day, “Gaudi never had any meaningful relationships because he was in love with his artwork,” and the church confirmed that passion. The Sagrada was actually so massive that we could not capture a picture with us and the entire building at the same time. The poor photography skills of the fellow tourist taking the picture didn't help either. 

After this we made our way to La Rambla to walk the area where vendors outlined the street and performers tried to shock and awe spectators.  Most memorable was the open market, called La Boqueria where picturesque displays of fruit, chocolate, fish, etc. were amazing.  Capping off the day was a statue of Christopher Columbus pointing towards America, and coincidently pointing straight at our hotel.  Hugh had scheduled drinks with the previously mentioned Canadian local, Joey who provided great entertainment with stories of crazy boyfriends, life in Las Vegas and gave us insight on the local culture.  

 

Sticking to local culture, we took a siesta in order to regain energy for another night on the town.  We had a delicious meal of coconut king prawns and lobster paella at Shoko and as the dinner winded down, waiters quickly removed tables to allow the restaurant to turn into a nightclub.  As mentioned before, the Semester at Sea program had arrived at their first port of the summer and the 1,000 students made the presence known.  Shouting a rowdy USA chant made us quickly realize why people are not always so fond of Americanos.  Regardless, with Hugh by our side, the only option was to talk to any and everyone and get out of our comfort zone.  Barcelona proved to be the city so many classmates have raved about during their semesters abroad as the bustling city, beautiful beaches combined with a vibrant nightlife would satisfy any young adult. 

With an 8:00 AM flight, we had our bags packed and were now off to Ibiza, ready to take on a city known for its beaches and nightlife.  Once again Hugh would be joining us and would be a welcomed addition, as his previous trip to Ibiza would land us a hotel and daytime beach spot.

Spain: From San Sebastian to Barcelona

Our trip down to Paris and then Barcelona was thrown for a loop when the concert ran an hour late, so we just crashed at Mac’s apartment after a delicious late night Lebanese snack.  We awoke at 6:00am for a journey to Paris and beyond.  In perfect fashion, we had to adjust our schedule and hopped a train to Irun (in close proximity to San Sebastian) where we would eventually make it to Barcelona at 22:00.  San Sebastian was the perfect pit stop after 24 hours of travelling.  We walked straight to the beach, threw on some trunks and finally took in some sun after dreary weather in both Dublin and London.  Chase rented a surfboard and shredded some waves for an hour, cruising some beautiful, rolling waves.  Spaniards are surely not afraid to show a little more skin but this made the six hours more interesting.  For a “small fishing town,” San Sebastian impressed us as a beautiful city with friendly beaches on the Bay of Biscay.

(Statue of Christ in San Sebastian)

We boarded our train to Barcelona and would be meeting an unexpected but integral member of the trip, Hugh Jessiman.  The ’06 Dartmouth graduate invited us into his decent hotel, The W, for the night.  Arriving so late, we grabbed a beer at the rooftop bar and went out to Opium to meet another Dartmouth friend, TJ Cameron who was celebrating his last night on another small euro trip.  Luckily, the people of Spain live a crazy lifestyle, eating dinner quite late, and going out closer to midnight.  Chase also ran into friends from the University of Arizona, Dennis Smith, Harry Tully, and JT Sand, which 

would make the Barcelona visit even more exciting.  With Jessiman constantly looking to “wheel,” we met girls from Rome, Nice, Stockholm, Lithuania, Amsterdam and plenty of Americans from the Semester at Sea program.